It’s helpful to consider the arm and torso shape and compare it to how most patterns are drafted.Ĭompare correct and incorrect patterns to see how they reflect what we know about the body’s shape. They don’t always match the reality of the body’s shape. The design and cut of garments and patterns have changed over the decades. Once you’ve established this sleeve, use it as a template for future garments. This ensures a truly custom sleeve with an attractive and comfortable fit. Instead, I’ll show you where a sleeve’s fit can go wrong, how to measure the body and draft a sleeve, and, finally, how to drape the sleeve cap when attaching it to the bodice on the body. Multi-size patterns are helpful for some aspects of fitting, but blending between sizes isn’t the best solution for sleeves. King says of fitting, “It’s either too big, too small, or the wrong shape.” Most of us need to make some changes to a standard pattern to get the shape right. It doesn’t come from making a sleeve bigger-it comes from the right fit. Extra wrinkles and baggy or tight areas are all symptoms of an improper fit.
We need to learn how to get a pattern to fit well, and then use the results to improve and simplify our sewing.Ī good fit is a comfortable arm covering that fits beautifully into a bodice that conforms to the body. After all, commercial patterns depend on average dimensions, and nobody is average.
There are so many different bodies, arms, sizes, and shapes, we shouldn’t be critical of a pattern or a ready-to-wear garment that doesn’t fit. After years-or a lifetime-of wearing clothes made to fit a standardized consumer, many of us have forgotten what a correct fit is. That is, I crave a sleeve that is custom-fitted to my arm and shoulder and that works within the garment’s armscye.
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